Colophon 2011

Code Magazine

Issue 02

2 cover(s) available
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CODE Magazine bv

documenting style

Amsterdam, Netherlands

Po Box 69654, 1060 CS

Email: peter@reload.nl

• Category: Fashion, Photography
• Periodicity: Quarterly
• Language: Dutch / English
• Format: 244 x 305 mm
• Circulation: 22,000
• Price: 8,95 €
• Web: http://www.code-mag.nl

Founded in 2005

Code magazine is a contemporary fashion magazine. The sub title is ‘documenting style’ and this is exactly what we do: CODE documents styles (scenes, subcultures and people) which are directional in terms of fashion. The means for this is what we named ‘documentary fashion photography’. Code did not invent this kind of imagery, but as a fashion magazine it is unique in the sense that it uses only this kind of photography. Fashion can be considered as a reflection of developments in society. That is what makes it interesting to us in any case, not the fact that one has to buy the latest fad to be part of the in-crowd. Code documents, reports and inspires. It has no ambition to dictate. Nowadays, brands are an important part of modern culture, personal style and identity, even. Therefore Code reports on brands. Code is not about abstract conceptual fashion or classic couture. Code shows clothing as Clothing. Stuff that can be worn and makes you look good.

Exclusive Interview

Dressed to CODE

What is your magazine about?
CODE magazine is a contemporary fashion magazine. The sub title is ‘documenting style’ and this is exactly what we do: CODE documents styles (scenes, subcultures and people) which are directional in terms of fashion. The means for this is what we named ‘documentary fashion photography’. CODE did not invent this kind of imagery, but as a fashion magazine it is unique in the sense that it uses only this kind of photography. We (therefore have to) explore the boundaries of documentary photography as a means to depict fashion.

Who’s behind the project? Tell us about the founders, their backgrounds and their motivations!
CODE was started by Peter van Rhoon (creative director/ publisher/ editor). The graphic identity was created by Dutch design agency Toko (www.toko.nu, based now in Sydney, Australia). The concept, a magazine about street inspired fashion, seemed a logical business opportunity considering the developments in fashion. The justification on a creative level to start CODE was that we knew we had the experience and vision to show fashion in a fresh way. We were so terribly bored by glamour fashion imagery with models striking their predictable poses within the concepts of stylists and photographers...

My background is 10 years of independent publishing RELOAD, a magazine about boardsports, music and art/graphic design. RELOAD existed 8 years long on the brink of financial disaster. After the format was changed for the 4-th time in 2007, it became completely healthy in the 9-th year and has stayed since.

How do you produce one issue? How much time do you spend on it? How big is your team?
We work 3-4 months on an issue. Each issue has a theme, which functions as a loose knit grid. Freelancers are briefed about the theme, ideas are thought up at the office and production starts. The heart of the team (on the payroll) is small: Five people and four interns. But we have a team of approximately 50 freelancers world wide.

What have been the important steps in the life of your magazine?
1-Issuing the pilot without making a loss. It was not close to what CODE would become to be, but it did the job in visualizing what CODE would be about. 2-The first issue. It hit like a rock and connected with the glamorous fashion crowd as well as with streetwear/boardsports scene. 3-The organization of an event called Off Schedule which is organized by us. It is a platform for new fashion talent as well as a great party and grew within 2 editions into the largest event at the Amsterdam Fashion Week. 4-Hopefully in March 2009: The launch of the German edition of CODE.
Which are the key ingredients for the success of your magazine?
First: A pretty clear vision. Secondly: A history of making every mistake possible in magazine publishing. Third: A fantastic network of talented, knowledgeable and dedicated people. Obviously CODE would not exist without these people. At the end of the day they make the magazine. Fourth: We are all suckers for quality. From the interns to our designers to our prepress guy to even our sales manager. It’s a characteristic which often is a burden. Fifth: A bit of luck.

What are the difficulties you are confronted with? What would be “the” thing to help the magazine to improve? Many things. A senior level full time personal assistant would be a start. Apart from that: A company jet and a private resort would be nice.

Where do you want the magazine to be in five years?
A successful German edition, possibly an English version and Off Schedule as an international event. Creatively I hope CODE will grow into one of the best (fashion) magazines worldwide, bringing fashion in a clear and different way.

Tell us about your audience! Who are the readers of your magazine?
Men (40%) as well as women (60%), 18-35 with a more than average interest in fashion. Ranging from students till media / fashion professionals.

Is remaining independent important to you? Is it part of the strategy?
Remaining independent is a means. Not an aim. It is a means to be able to make creative and strategic choices without loosing a lot of time. And it is a means in order to determine without discussion what we invest in which content. So being independent is useful. But the hypothetical situation of being part of a larger publishing house, where synergy is possible and knowledge and experience on a different levels like sales, marketing, logistics would be available WITHOUT sacrificing in decision making speed and creative freedom, still sounds ideal. Finding the jar of gold at the end of the rainbow sounds really good too.

What’s your relationship with advertisement? Does it influence your content? Do you care about advertising-driven-editorials?
Advertising does influence our content in the sense that advertising brands (can) expect to be in the magazine. Actually I have no problem at all with that. Pretty much all of the brands advertising in CODE match the world of the magazine and a fashion magazine is not a news magazine. Advertising does not influence our content in the sense that we can not feature OTHER content which is worth the while. Or not feature things we would like to feature.
We have paid for editorials, which we call collaborators. They are exactly this: creative collaborations and recognizable as such for the reader, since they are titled ‘collab’.
The idea behind the question obviously touches the matter of ‘journalistic independence and objectivity’. It’s a grossly overrated notion. Read Noam Chomsky and you’re done with the idea of independent media. What a magazine has to strive for is to stay true to its identity. After all, all a niche magazine has in these times of fast information is (creative) credibility. This is the reason for a reader to buy the magazine and for an marketeer to advertise. Sacrificing that is sacrificing the long term potential of a title and burning the interests of advertisers who bought into this identity.

What do you think of your issue 01, when you look back at it?
Still love it. It was of high quality. Maybe too high almost. That issue hit the market like a bomb, change and progress have been subtle after that.

Magazine favorite(s) that inspired you in your career.
Donald Duck in the seventies. Porn magazines in the beginning of the eighties. Ha ha. The Face in the middle eighties and begin nineties, Interview in the eighties, Arena in the begin nineties. And Dutch which also does not exist anymore. To me all of these magazines, except the porn ones, were iconic. But also Wired till this day, which I think is an incredibly well made magazine. I enjoy GQ. But also Linda, which is one of the most successful (mass) titles for women in Holland is interesting. It’s based on Ophrah, but one can only appreciate their bold editorial choices. These mass titles are extremely well made magazine, with enormous amounts of passion and lots creativity, though the content is not art or creativity linked. A good magazine surprises. It does not conform. It being independent or not has not so much to do with it being good or not. Furthermore: A magazine. And Acne magazine. Juxtapoz, even though it lost its rough edge, is interesting. And I like V magazine. Also Kids Wear is really really well done. Love that one.

Do you keep old copies of magazines? If so, what is your favorite in your collection?
I hardly do. I don’t even have a copy of the first magazine I published. It’s truly a shame, but my mind is very future directed.

How many magazines do you buy / get / read each month? Do you qualify yourself a maniac?
I buy/get maybe 10-15 magazines per month. But don’t read more than 4. Obviously I love magazines. But a lot of magazines are too predictable or simply not strong enough to surprise. I still love those that are kind of quirky and unpredictable, while being also of high creative level.

We are compiling answers from some of the most innovative magazine makers around the world today. Who else should we ask?
Bernd Upmeyer, who makes Monu magazine, a surprisingly well written, very small magazine about urbanism.

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